My Copenhagen Travel Guide

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Eva Amurri shares her Copenhagen travel guide.

 

There are trips that are fun, trips that are relaxing, and then there are trips that rearrange something inside of you. Our week in Copenhagen was that kind of trip. Ian and I went in expecting great food, beautiful design, and maybe a little shopping (okay, a lot of shopping), but what we came home with was so much bigger than a suitcase full of Scandi ceramics and fabulous style pieces.

Copenhagen has a well-earned reputation as a food city, a design city, a city with the kind of shopping that makes you want to redecorate your entire life. And yes, all of that is absolutely true. But what caught us off guard was the feeling of the place. The Danes have figured something out that the rest of us are still scrambling for. There’s a collective calm there, a society that genuinely seems to operate with regulated nervous systems. People aren’t rushing. They’re not performing busyness. They’re gathering with friends, biking to the harbor for a swim, lingering over wine on a Tuesday, picking up their kids from school at 3 pm and not apologizing for it.

What struck me most is how the Danes design their lives just as beautifully as they design their everyday products. There’s a true emphasis on family, on living life to the fullest, on making the ordinary feel extraordinary. And in summer? Forget it. The whole city comes alive with this infectious energy of people soaking up every single ray of sunlight, eating outdoors, gathering in parks, swimming in the canals. It’s a culture that is all about celebrating togetherness and squeezing every drop of joy out of the season. Ian and I left completely inspired, and I cannot wait to go back.

Here’ s everything we loved:

 

Food

The food scene in Copenhagen is on another level. And I don’t just mean the Michelin-starred temples (though those exist too). I mean the neighborhood bakeries, the natural wine bars, the Italian spots that rival anything you’d find in Rome. Here’s where we ate and loved:

 

Atelier September — Frederik Bille Brahe’s beloved neighborhood café is everything Copenhagen does right in one beautiful room. Vegetarian, seasonal, minimalist, and impossibly chic. The avocado toast here is legendary for a reason, but honestly everything on the menu feels like a love letter to simple, well-sourced ingredients. There are multiple locations now, so you can swing by wherever you happen to be staying.

 

Juno Bakery — An award-winning bakery in Østerbro with interiors designed by Frama (sensing a theme here). The space is all open kitchen energy, with big windows so you can watch the bakers at work. The pastries are flaky perfection, and the cardamom bun is the best we had all trip.

 

Orsa — A laid-back coffee and music spot in Vesterbro that feels like hanging out in someone’s very cool living room. Great coffee, great vibes, zero pretense. Their tagline is basically “making good coffee and playing music,” and honestly, what more do you need?

 

Bar Vitrine — A tiny, 16-seat wine bar that feels like being invited into someone’s home kitchen. Created by the founder of FRAMA, a restaurateur, and a former Noma chef, it’s an intimate array of creative small plates and carefully selected wines. The space has zero pretense and maximum soul, and the people watching is NEXT LEVEL. Snag a seat outside if you can!

 

Cafe Victor — A classic Copenhagen institution near Kongens Nytorv. It’s the kind of elegant, buzzy café where locals have been gathering for years over wine and perfectly executed bistro fare. Great people-watching energy, and the nighttime scene is worth booking dinner for!

 

Apollo Bar — Another Frederik Bille Brahe gem, tucked into the courtyard of Kunsthal Charlottenborg just off Nyhavn. Hidden from the tourist chaos, it has soaring ceilings, incredible bread, and a menu that bounces from morning coffee to nightcaps with live music. The courtyard in summer is absolutely magical.

 

Maven — Nordic food served in the shadow of a decommissioned medieval church (Nikolaj Church). Michelin-recommended, with a gorgeous terrace that makes you feel like you’ve been transported back in time. The food is beautifully executed, and the setting is unreal.

 

Tata Cocktail Bar — Located inside Hotel Sanders, directly behind the Royal Danish Theatre, this intimate cocktail bar is named after the red velvet curtain at the neighboring theater. It’s playful, a little decadent, and serves the best classic cocktails in a setting that’s pure vintage glamour. The rooftop terrace is a summer must.

 

Paté Paté — Set in a former paté factory in the Meatpacking District, this wine bar/eatery/tapas spot is a Copenhagen institution. The food draws from French, Spanish, and Middle Eastern flavors, the wine list is massive and wonderful, and the vibe is perfect for a long, lingering dinner with friends.

 

Husmanns Vinstue — A true piece of Copenhagen history. This charming frokost (lunch) restaurant has been serving smørrebrød since 1888, and the original interior has been lovingly preserved. Our waiter walked us through the traditional ordering process (herring first, then meat, then cheese), and it was one of the most quintessentially Danish meals of the trip. I also had my first Schnapps ever!

 

Bevi Bevi — A quaint Italian food and wine bar in Vesterbro with fresh pasta, sharing plates, and a curated natural wine selection. It’s inspired by slow Italian cooking and feels like the perfect date night spot. Grab a seat at the bar or settle in for a longer meal. I felt like we were in the owner’s dining room.

 

Mangia — Seasonal, organic, local food paired with natural wines. It’s unfussy and delicious, the kind of place where everything tastes like it was picked that morning. This spot is filled with locals, and isn’t touristy at all.

 

Kødbyens Fiskebar — A Copenhagen seafood institution in the Meatpacking District. Industrial-chic space, sustainably sourced fish, incredible oysters, and a tasting menu that’s worth every krone. They work directly with local fishermen and a biodynamic farm, and you can taste the difference. This was our favorite meal of the trip. If you can’t get a dinner reservation, try showing up on the early side for lunch!

 

Levi — Italian-Japanese fusion in a stunning space designed by Johannes Torpe Studio. Think horseshoe-shaped verde marble bar, Milanese design references, and dishes that somehow make the Italy-meets-Japan thing feel completely natural. Named after the famous Italian grappa distillery Romano Levi. We had Ian’s birthday lunch here, and it was out of this world and a worth-it splurge.

 

Andersen & Maillard — A bakery and coffee roastery in Nordhavn with high ceilings, industrial bones, and an incredibly warm atmosphere. The perfect morning stop if you’re exploring the harbor neighborhoods. We loved the cinnamon rolls!

 

Bar Poldo — A small, cozy wine bar where you sit at the bar and let the Italian owners guide you through their curated natural wine list. The wines are mostly Mediterranean with Italy as the star, and on weekends they serve more substantial food. Intimate, laid-back, perfect. I wish we had this spot in Westport!

 

Barr — Set in the former Noma building on the waterfront, Barr focuses on the food and drink traditions of the North Sea region. The schnitzel is iconic, and the Snøhetta-designed interior is gorgeous. It’s serious cooking without tasting-menu ceremony, and one of the best values in the city.

 

Louisiana Café — Inside the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (more on that below), this café combines beautiful seasonal food with a world-class view over the Øresund Strait and Calder sculptures on the terrace. Worth the trip alone.

Shopping

I may have needed an extra suitcase on the way home. Copenhagen shopping is dangerous in the best way: everything is beautifully made, thoughtfully designed, and impossible to resist. Nobody is cooler than a Danish girl just moseying on her merry way down the busy city street! Move over, French Girls! I was obsessed.

 

Boii — A Danish fashion boutique on Kronprinsensgade with cute, affordable pieces and beautiful displays. Think quality smart-casual basics with clean Scandinavian lines. The staff is genuinely helpful, and the prices won’t make you flinch (rare for Copenhagen!).

 

Samsøe Samsøe — Founded in 1993 as a tiny jewelry shop in Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter, now a full-blown international fashion house. Their Pilestræde flagship is set in a converted historic bathhouse with original tiled walls and terrazzo floors. Minimalist, wearable, and rooted in that effortless Scandinavian simplicity. I wanted every single item in here.

 

I Blame Lulu — Pre-loved luxury fashion done beautifully. This is high-end secondhand with a carefully curated, hand-picked collection of timeless designer pieces. They believe in quality over fast fashion, and every piece feels like it has years of wear left.

 

Time’s Up Vintage — A great spot for well-curated vintage finds. The selection rotates constantly and spans decades, so you never know what treasures you’ll uncover.

 

Carmen — Authentic vintage spanning the 1940s through the 1990s. Clothing, shoes, accessories, kimonos, jewelry, home decor. The quality is top-notch, and the cozy atmosphere makes browsing a pleasure. A time-warp shop in the best possible way.

 

Jerome — A lovely fashion boutique with a well-edited selection of emerging and established brands. Worth popping into for something you won’t find back home.

 

Pico — Denmark’s leading brand for hair ornaments and accessories since 2004. Their clips and barrettes are works of art, and you can spot a Pico piece in the streets of Copenhagen everywhere. The quality is incredible, and they make the perfect souvenir.

 

Stine Goya — Bold prints, playful silhouettes, and pure joy in clothing form. Their Copenhagen flagship is a feast for the eyes, full of color and statement pieces that make you feel braver about getting dressed. Empowering Scandinavian fashion at its best.

 

Ganni — If you know, you know. Copenhagen’s favorite cool-girl brand mixes playful Scandinavian design with streetwear edge. Bold prints, responsible materials, and that effortlessly undone energy that Danes do so well.

 

Skall Studio — Sustainable Danish fashion with a focus on natural materials, timeless silhouettes, and thoughtful construction. Everything feels like it was made to last a lifetime, and the aesthetic is perfectly understated.

 

Another Nué — A fashion boutique in the heart of Copenhagen (Krystalgade) with a beautifully handpicked selection that mixes soft femininity with functional style. Great emerging brands alongside established names, and a light, welcoming space.

 

Lot 29 — This independent shop is like discovering a secret treasure chest. Hand-selected rarities, from clothing and leather goods to ceramics and beauty. It’s more creative than high fashion, and the space has the welcoming energy of a home. You could spend hours.

 

Studio Arhoj — A ceramics and glass studio that fuses Scandinavian simplicity with Japanese design traditions. Founded in Tokyo, now headquartered in central Copenhagen with an open studio where you can watch pieces being made. Their mugs, vases, and glass pieces make the best souvenirs, and every single one is unique.

 

By Malene Birger — Sophisticated Scandinavian minimalism in a gorgeous flagship on Antonigade. The space is all soft curves, natural materials, and sculptural calm. The clothing is refined, intentional, and built for longevity.

 

AF Agger — A small Danish brand built on the belief that simplicity is beautiful and sustainability means making something of lasting worth. Their quality pieces feel timeless and elevated, the kind of clothes you’ll wear for years. Peep their iconic trench coat!

 

Hay — I saved the best for last (for interiors lovers, at least). HAY’s flagship on Østergade is a design playground: contemporary Danish furniture, accessories, and homewares in every color imaginable. Mustard steel chairs next to candy-pink shelving, bouclé sofas, glassware in improbable shades. It’s the most successful Danish furniture brand of the 21st century, and walking through is pure inspiration for your home.

 

Exploring

Copenhagen is the kind of city where even aimless wandering feels productive, but these are the spots that really made an impression:

 

Rosenborg Castle — Christian IV’s 17th-century Renaissance castle, set in the King’s Garden in the heart of the city. It’s relatively small and incredibly intimate, with original audience rooms, the king’s bedchamber, and the Danish crown jewels in the treasury below. Book a timed ticket in advance during summer because it sells out. The tours are really interesting and taught us a lot!

 

Glyptoteket — The Nordic region’s largest collection of antique art, world-class French Impressionists (Monet, Degas, Cézanne, van Gogh), and Danish Golden Age pieces, all in a building with jaw-dropping architecture. But the real showstopper is the Winter Garden: a lush glass-covered atrium that feels like stepping into another world. One of my favorite museum experiences ever.

 

Design Museum Denmark — A must for anyone who loves design (so, everyone reading this?). Their permanent collection spans Danish Modern classics and includes Verner Panton pieces, and the building itself is beautiful. I was blown away by how well they explain the evolution of Danish design in relation to its historical significance. It captures exactly what makes Danish design so enduring. Don’t skip the gift shop! We did a lot of damage there…

 

SMK (National Gallery of Denmark) — Denmark’s largest art museum with an impressive collection spanning 700 years. The building is stunning, and there’s always a compelling special exhibition running alongside the permanent collection.

 

National Museum Copenhagen — For a deep dive into Danish history and culture, from Viking artifacts to modern Danish life. It helps contextualize everything you’re seeing and experiencing in the city. The section for kids is wonderful. I can’t wait to return with my own in tow!

 

Canal Tours — Honestly one of the best ways to see the city. Gliding through the canals gives you a completely different perspective on Copenhagen’s architecture and neighborhoods. Do it early in your trip to get the lay of the land.

 

Danish Architecture Center (DAC) — Housed in the striking BLOX building on the waterfront, DAC explores how architecture shapes our lives. Their “So Danish!” exhibition brings together 1,000 years of Danish architecture, design, and urban life, and it’s a perfect complement to all the beautiful design you’re seeing around the city.

 

Botanical Gardens (especially the Palm House) — A green oasis in the heart of the city. The Victorian Palm House was built in the 1870s, inspired by London’s Crystal Palace, and stepping inside feels like entering a tropical dream. From the terrace, you get a gorgeous view of Copenhagen’s spires and towers. Free garden admission, timed tickets for the Palm House.

 

Copenhagen Opera House & The Opera Park — The Opera House itself is stunning, but the real discovery for us was the adjacent Opera Park. Designed by Cobe architects and opened recently, it’s 21,500 square meters of gorgeous greenery on the harbor front with over 225 plant species, 600 trees, and a greenhouse café. A green, soft counterpart to the glass and steel of the harbor. Absolutely magical in summer.

A Slight Sidequest Outside Copenhagen

Louisiana Museum of Modern Art — About 35 minutes north of the city in Humlebæk, Louisiana is one of the world’s most respected modern art museums, and for good reason. The architecture seamlessly blends with the surrounding nature and offers stunning views over the sea to Sweden. The collection is world-class, the sculpture garden is dreamy, the café is incredible (see above), and the museum shop is one of the best anywhere. A non-negotiable day trip.

 

Dyrehaven — A sprawling, ancient deer park near Klampenborg, just north of Copenhagen. Hundreds of free-roaming deer in a landscape that feels like a painting. It’s where Copenhageners go for long walks, picnics, and a dose of wild nature just minutes from the city. Bring a blanket and a snack and just be for a while. It’s the most Danish thing you can do.

 


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